If your cat was only running and hiding under your furniture, then I would suspect feeling "scared" was the probable main reason. The combination of actions you describe, however, sounds like a more complex problem. It's quite possible that your cat is feeling scared, but it's probably because he's not feeling well. A trip to the veterinarian is in order to properly diagnose the problem. Based on what you've written, Patches may be suffering from two types of parasites: fleas and ear mites. Both can cause the body twitching, biting and head shaking that you describe. Clues to the presence of fleas are small black specks, also known as "flea dirt," in your cat's coat. Ear mites are a different parasite. They can live in your cat's ear canal and cause irritation if they are present in large enough numbers. Related excess scratching, infections and hematomas (blood blisters) can all result and may lead to permanent problems, so it's best that your cat gets examined by a veterinarian soon.

Some cats go through their own rambunctious period, and yours appears to be one of them. This period usually occurs when a kitten is eight to 15 weeks old. During this time, full weaning takes place, all baby teeth erupt and hormones surge. It is a critical period of growth and development for your cat, with another key stage occurring at 15 to 18 weeks of age. It is concerning, however, that your cat is releasing its playful energy in negative ways, as evidenced by your scratched chairs and curtains. It sounds like you are a dutiful caretaker, but just be sure that when you purchase a cat tree and toys, you spend time introducing them to your kitten. Catnip can help grab your kitten's attention if your pet is catnip-sensitive. While redirecting the kitten's attention to toys, you also need to discourage bad behavior. A squirt of water from a spray bottle or a short loud noise, such as a whistle, often does the trick. You might also have to cover furniture you wish to protect, or spray it with a kitty repellent. (Not all materials can be sprayed, however.) In addition to playing with your kitten, spend some quiet time with it too. Just as humans need to learn to meditate, cats sometimes must learn to enjoy calm periods. Give your kitten a relaxing massage after playtime, for example, to help it settle down.

There are two possible reasons your cat wants to nip at you after you pet him. The first is that the extra attention puts him in a playful mood. Like a twitching string on a pole toy, your moving arm may stimulate your cat's need to work off some excess energy to play. But the more likely explanation is that your cat is telling you, "Enough already!" He can't verbally communicate this message, aside from crying out, so he has to do whatever he can to get you to stop. It could be that you've made your cat uncomfortable in some way. Many cats are sensitive around the stomach area. They can tolerate a certain amount of massage there, but after a while, the pressure becomes uncomfortable for them. Be sensitive to literal sore spots on its body, as those can also signify health problems. A visit with your veterinarian can help you identify any such problems. The good news about such unwanted friskiness is that cats almost always provide you with a visual warning before they bite. Watch your cat's tail: If it begins to swish from side to side, chances are he's had enough attention for now.

It sounds like your cat puts on quite a pre-medication performance! Your cat may need a refresher course on good behavior, even if she has been socialized. Try to spend as much time as possible with her, giving her positive, tangible attention, so that when you need to handle her, she won't have such a snit. Most cats do resist pills and medicine. They have no mental way of associating good health with some yucky-tasting, threatening pill. It's therefore good to have a helper. That way, one person can hold your cat while the other administers the medicine. With or without this second pair of hands, the cat should be gently yet securely wrapped in a towel or blanket. Liquid medication is usually easier to give, as you can simply put it into a plastic -- not glass -- dropper, and drop it into one side of your cat's mouth while you tilt your pet's head. Massaging your cat's throat can induce swallowing. I sometimes crush pills and put them in a bit of water. You might also consider investing in a pet piller, a device that safely pops pills into your cat's throat. Follow with a throat massage to make sure your cat gulps the pill down.

The gesture you mention has not been fully studied and documented by cat behaviorists or featured in a major peer-reviewed journal. But there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence from cat owners like you suggesting that cats use this gesture to attract your attention. The stance may have evolved from the gentle "tap" some cats give their owners with retracted claws, which is somewhat comparable to a person tapping you on the shoulder. (This is all assuming your cat is indeed not hurt and has been fully examined by his veterinarian.) Has your cat ever played a game involving that paw? Felines have an incredible memory, so your pet could be recalling some past activity. Far more common is when cats stretch in front of, or even on, their owners. That's not always just a sign that your cat is tired or waking up. Like a dog play bow, cat stretches can serve as a respectful greeting and may mean that your cat is ready for some fun quality time with you.

Talk to your veterinarian about his or her health recommendations for your cat. Share your concerns and have your veterinarian clarify the hierarchy of importance of their recommendation. Together you can decide how to best approach your cat's health. The above having been said, low-cost vaccinations are available through many humane societies, pet stores and other organizations. The nation's largest provider of affordable vaccinations in pet stores is LuvMyPet. You can locate a clinic near your area by visiting LuvMyPet.com.

Congratulations on adopting an adult cat. Adult felines often make the best housemates, and yet they are so often overlooked at shelters and rescue facilities. One reason felines make such good pets is that they are smart -- often too smart for most cat toys. Cats are very in tune with their senses, so if something doesn't smell, look and sound natural and interesting, they generally ignore it. Toys filled with good, strong catnip might grab your feline's attention every so often. If catnip does nothing for your pet, try toys stuffed with dried honeysuckle. Frisky cats might chase any mechanical mouse or similar toy, but I've found that many of these toys make a horrible motor sound when they move, scaring some felines to death. The best toys of this type move in an unpredictable manner and keep going even when they hit an obstacle. Cat toys most popular with felines require owner participation. If you're interested in a toy, your cat will likely investigate it too. Perennial favorites include classics like Da Bird, Kitten Mitten, the Cat Dancer and laser toys. Manufacturers are now making similar products (like Panic Mouse) that are attached to a motor so the pole toy jerks around by itself. You might consider such a toy to keep your cat busy when you are at work or asleep. I also recommend looking at Web sites of major pet stores. Most allow readers to rate individual toys, so you can see which toys were a hit with other cats.

The sleek and regal Siamese is one of the world's oldest known cat breeds, but they are definitely not famous for being quiet. If your male Siamese has not been neutered, take care of that ASAP, since mating cycles can trigger excessive meowing. A veterinary visit can also rule out health issues that could cause frequent vocalizing, such as hyperthyroidism and hearing loss. Most likely your boy is just naturally quite vocal. Try playing with him close to bedtime. Offer catnip-scented toys if he responds to catnip, or honeysuckle-scented ones if he does not react to catnip. These herbs excite cats initially, but then seem to make felines a bit drowsy once the mild kitty buzz wears down. Any sort of playtime will do, however, as the goal is to work off some of your cat's energy so that he won't feel inclined to do that while you're sleeping.

Only about half of the cat population is sensitive to catnip, so your cat is in good company and is likely fine. The potent chemical in catnip -- a fragrant member of the mint family -- is nepetalactone. It triggers head rubbing, rolling, leaping and all sorts of playful behaviors in catnip-sensitive felines. If your cat does react to catnip, try growing the plant yourself. Organic catnip is the best option. When dried, it will store for months in an airtight container. The catnip "high" lasts only about 15 minutes, however. By that time, most cats eat the herb, become covered with the stuff or seem to just get bored. Cats that don't react to catnip often go bonkers over dried honeysuckle. Just be sure to never provide your cat with honeysuckle berries, as those are considered poisonous to felines. Some manufacturers, such as Kitty Kottage, are now offering cat-safe toys stuffed with honeysuckle for these catnip non-cravers. It sounds like yours is one of them, so honeysuckle-scented toys might be your best option.

It's great to hear about your thriving multi-cat household. If you have sufficient room, access to veterinarians to consult with, and a well-organized system to care for the cats, this is a great way to save cats that may have otherwise been euthanized. We all, however, are familiar with media reports about irresponsible, sometimes troubled, owners who have far too many pets than they can properly manage. Conversely, just one cat could be too many for certain individuals lacking the time, space, funds and other feline necessities. So there is no right or wrong precise cat number limit, since there are too many variables to consider. Dr. Nicholas Dodman of the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University recently addressed this very subject at petplace.com. He shared that inappropriate urination and other behavioral problems can surface if an owner has more than 10 cats. In his view, around 10 may therefore be "the magic number."

To your cat, your home is like an urban jungle, and that includes all your furniture and other accessible goodies. Cats are quite practical, however, so the furniture likely holds some function for your feline: easier transportation (such as marching over a coffee table to get to a chair), sleeping area (as on a comfy sofa) or surface for scratching claws.

To keep your cat off any item, make it unattractive to your pet and provide a better alternative. Scratching on a couch or wooden furniture is probably the worst kitty offense; the most important preventive measure in this case is to regularly trim your cat's claws. This helps your pet, since claws can get caught in material. It'll help you too, by preventing couch and curtain rips.

Cats hate the feel and smell of tinfoil and sticky tape, so you can try placing these on areas your cat targets. If possible, spray an odor-neutralizing solution -- sold at pet stores. Since cats usually return to places where they've left their scent, the sprays might throw them off. If you need to protect the fabric of a chair or couch, place a blanket over the furniture temporarily and then spray with the odor neutralizer or a citrus-scented spray, such as one containing orange oil. Cats usually hate citrus smells -- the volatile oils in the fruit rind evolved, in part, to deter curious and hungry animals.

Finally, consider purchasing a cat tree that offers good places for claw scratching, as well as one or more cubbyholes or perches. Place the tree in an area frequented by your cat and sprinkle it with catnip. Make sure the tree is stable and will not tip over when your cat hops on it.

Kittens typically receive their first round of shots when they are 8 to 9 weeks old. Most vaccinations prevent illness by introducing a small amount of the disease-causing organism into the individual’s body. This stimulates the immune system, leading to the creation of antibodies that can protect your cat against a possible, more full-blown version of the disease. The antibodies diminish over time, so your kitten will need booster shots throughout its life. Your veterinarian will advise you as to when these are needed.

Usually, that first round of shots is a single “cocktail” that will help safeguard your pet against three diseases: feline panleukopenia, which is a contagious and often deadly viral disease; feline rhinotracheitis, which can cause acute respiratory illness; and feline calicivirus, another viral illness that can create severe respiratory problems.

Your veterinarian will likely advise that you have your kitten tested for feline leukemia. You may also need to vaccinate your cat against rabies, as that is required in some states. No vaccination is 100 percent effective, however, so it is a good idea to keep your cat inside at all times, with limited exposure to screens and windows that may have been marked by outdoor animals. Distemper and rabies are just two of the many illnesses that spread more easily to outdoor cats. Your indoor-only kitty will also avoid all of the other obvious outdoor dangers, such as cars and garden poisons.

If your senior kitty was not regularly brushed at an early age, or if it had a bad experience during a grooming session, it could now be brush-phobic. Here are some tips: First, buy a good-quality brush appropriate for your cat’s type of fur. For example, pin brushes are good for long-haired coats, and soft-bristled brushes work better on shorthairs. Start the session by holding your cat and petting it as it prefers. With slow, gentle movements, introduce the brush without your cat seeing it. While your cat is facing forward on your lap, begin to brush its back area on each side, avoiding the more sensitive spine. Always brush from front to back, in the direction of your cat’s fur growth. Don’t pull on tangles -- which elderly long-haired felines are prone to get, since they can’t always groom themselves properly. It’s better to snip off tangles, far away from your cat’s skin, rather than brush through them. If your cat begins to get antsy, stop the grooming session and try it again at another time. The goal is to get your cat to associate such moments with pleasant experiences. Stay relaxed and quiet, always using gentle brushstrokes, because your cat is very sensitive to your own emotions and behaviors. Cats have extraordinary memories for both positive and negative experiences. When your cat learns to link brush time to good times, your problem will be solved.

I’m glad that your cat has been neutered, as that procedure helps to curb aggression in male felines. The timing of the neutering can also be important, since males neutered before sexual maturity -- at around 6 months -- are less likely to spray urine, roam and fight. Observe your cats to see if you can pinpoint what instigates the fighting. Sometimes cats will fight over food, a favorite resting spot, toys or other items. Keep a squirt bottle full of water handy to break up the fights. This may help to discourage the bouts from occurring in the first place. You may have to call in a cat behavior specialist, but before you do that, try redirecting your male cat’s aggression. Spend time playing with him to work off his excess energy. It’s better that he pounces on a pole toy feather or a mechanical mouse than on one of your other cats.

Since your two cats have been living together for a while, you most likely had a successful introduction and that your cats are coexisting without serious hostility issues. Any kind of feline behavioral change, such as decreased energy and affection, can sometimes result from underlying medical problems, so first have this cat examined by your veterinarian to rule out health issues. Cats in the wild are solitary hunters, so they’re keen on protecting their turf from other cats. Before you brought in your new cat, your existing one probably had a quiet, secure dining area, bed, toys and more. Now it has this “invader” cat to deal with. Sometimes, cats bond with each other quickly, similar to love/friendship-at-first-sight for humans, but other times they just learn to tolerate each other, or even stay enemies. All cats have their own personality and foibles, just as we do. Make your longer-term cat feel more secure by ensuring that it still has its own space in your house, in terms of a bed, litter box, food bowl and toys. Pay attention to the time that you are devoting to both cats. Felines will generally mirror back whatever love and attention you give to them. And try to involve both cats in playtime activities, perhaps spending a bit of extra time with the more withdrawn feline first to engage its interest.

Young cats like yours can sometimes do all sorts of wacky things, like drag shoes around the house, jump on curtains or even snatch and shred tissues out of boxes. All of these behaviors are simply boredom busters for your playful cat.

To work off some of that excess energy, schedule more productive, controlled playtimes with your cat. Usually felines will be predictably energetic at certain times of the day and sleepy at other periods. If possible, arrange the play sessions when your cat is at its friskiest. Pole toys, catnip-scented mice (if your cat is sensitive to catnip) and tossing around a few pieces of hard food could keep your cat active and engaged.

One other thought is that you could be inadvertently training your cat to misbehave. Like children, cats crave attention, be it good or bad. Whenever your cat drags down the laundry, you probably approach your pet and scold it. To your previously ignored cat, however, that might not be so bad. Sometimes ignoring misbehavior -- so long as you can secure your laundry in a good, covered basket -- resolves the problem.

Cats are creatures of habit, so any change in a cat’s behavior can be cause for concern. Your cat could be afraid that you’ll hurt him when you touch or pet him. That may be the case if he is injured or ill. There are times when you feel sick and do not want people around you. Cats are the same way, except they withdraw even more when they feel ill.

Four things almost always cause chronic anxiety in cats: illness, pain, fear or a change in your cat’s routine. More than one of these can be at work at a time. Assuming that your cat is in good health, something about you or the environment you share with your cat might have changed. Obvious answers are a new roommate, pet or house move, but even subtle changes can bother savvy felines.

Cats also have incredible memories when it comes to negative stimulation. If you accidentally once hurt your cat when you petted it, he may remember that moment for a long time. You may need to reinforce bonding with your pet by setting aside daily play periods with favorite toys -- such as a kitty pole toy -- and quietly approaching him for regular gentle head rubs and massages.

First, make sure you are weighing your cat correctly on the scale. An easy method is to simply step on a scale by yourself and note your own weight. Then pick up your cat and step on the scale. Subtract your weight from the total to get a rough estimate of your cat’s weight. If your cat gains or loses just half a pound in a week, that can be cause for concern.

Your cat is in his senior years, so his body is likely undergoing many changes in terms of muscle mass and other internal processes. This could explain the “bony” feel without actual weight loss. However, a change in body feel can be linked to cancer and other serious illnesses, so it’s crucial to take your cat to your veterinarian for a complete examination.

Your cat’s change in behavior is concerning as well. Cats can’t yell “stop it” when they feel pain, so his biting could indicate that he is feeling some discomfort when you touch him. Consult your veterinarian, who can examine these issues and rule out health problems that could be the cause of all of the symptoms you describe.

Like cat fur and human hair, feline whiskers continuously grow, fall out and get replaced with new ones. This is quite normal. Minus injury, health problems or defects, all cats possess 12 whiskers on each side of the muzzle, for a total of 24. Technically called “vibrissae,” the whiskers are very sensitive and can do everything from gauge wind direction to detect movement under extreme low-light conditions. A little-known fact is that when a cat hunts a mouse or other prey, it can push its whiskers into a more forward position to focus in on the movements of its target.

You say, however, that you’ve noticed “an increase in lost whiskers.” Sudden loss of many whiskers at a time can be a symptom of infection and other health problems. Usually other symptoms, such as weight loss and lethargy, are evident as well. Should you have any doubts, a visit to your veterinarian is in order.

One last bit of advice is to never cut or unnecessarily touch your cat’s whiskers. Because whiskers are highly sensitive, these actions could cause your pet discomfort. Your cat also needs its whiskers for proper daily function, so just let them be and only admire them from afar.

When training your cat, the goal is for her to associate a certain desired behavior with a reward. To some extent, humans are no different. We’re more inclined to do something if we know a reward -- be it monetary, edible or verbal praise -- is coming. Cats, of course, love to eat, so food is an easy option. But in situations where you want to avoid extra edible handouts, try clicker training combined with verbal praise and extra attention.

Let’s say you are trying to teach your cat to sit. When your cat adopts the proper position after you say “sit,” immediately click the clicker and offer the praise. Studies show that cats respond to “sweet talk,” technically called “motherese,” which is similar to what we use when communicating with babies and kids. So, verbally praise her and then pet her, focusing on her favorite areas for massage.

Cats can quickly learn to associate sounds with expected consequences. Over time, your cat will know to sit when it hears the command and the clicker. Cats will often even behave when they hear the clicker alone, just as you may work overtime even when your boss forgets to praise you. You might stop when the rewards end, though, and your cat will too.

Bringing an older female cat into a home with an established male is comparable to someone suddenly throwing you into an arranged marriage that you never asked for. Both cats could feel threatened and probably want their privacy back.

Normally, I would advise you to bring home the new cat -- your sister’s pet -- in a closed carrier, which Videl could explore while the older female feels safe. You could still try that, but it may not work as effectively since the two cats are already cohabitating. Each cat should have its own dish, litter box, bed and toys so they’re not in competition for these necessities. Both cats should also be fixed.

Over time, Videl and the other cat may come to accept each other as part of the territory. When that happens, and your sister’s cat learns that Videl isn’t out to get her, she should relax quite a bit. But just as not all people can live together in perfect harmony, not all cats can get along with each other, particularly when they are adults set in their ways. Try to be patient and to make their lives as comfortable as possible during the adjustment period.

Your concern, both for your cat and your kitchen cabinet, is understandable! The problem does not revolve around your cat’s attraction to your kitchen cabinet but instead has to do with why your cat is rejecting the previously established litter box.

First, if you haven’t already done so, schedule a visit with your veterinarian to rule out health problems that can cause a cat to reject the litter box. These may include urinary tract or bladder issues, infections, medications, parasites and more. Elderly cats often get arthritis or other age-related health problems that can affect litter box usage, but since your cat is only 5, these problems are most likely not the case.

Make sure each of your cats has its own clean litter box. Frequently scoop the boxes clean and change the litter as directed by the manufacturer. If you’ve recently changed litter brands, your cat may not like the new litter’s smell or texture.

Finally, you can retrain your cat to use his litter box by keeping your pet in its own comfy, closed-off room for a few days. Make sure the room contains food, water, his favorite toys and scratchers, and of course, a clean litter box. Without access to your kitchen cabinet and no other attractive options in sight, he should get into the habit of using his box again. Use this time to also thoroughly clean your kitchen cabinet so your cat won’t recognize his scent there when he’s allowed back into the rest of your home.

Good for you for adding another cat to your family. It’s important to note, however, that unlike dogs, cats are not true pack animals and cooperative hunters. Wild cats hunt by themselves and spend a fair amount of time protecting their personal turf.

Your adult cat had her lap, her toys, her food, her litter box and so on, and sharing these things with your knew kitten is most likely not easy for her. Multiple cats will typically negotiate territories with each other, even if they get along. Your older cat likely doesn’t think she’s been replaced but rather that she has to be a bit more wary. You probably also spent a lot of time with your new kitten, so your adult cat may now be conditioned to expect less attention from you.

Try to engage both your cats in activities that you can all enjoy together, such as playing with a fishing-pole toy. Make sure all is well at dinner and litter box time. Your older cat may also be reacting to your kitten’s scent, which serves as a territorial marker, so you could try washing your hands and laying down a fresh lap blanket when spending time with your older cat.

For a cat to feel fully comfortable around humans, it must be socialized -- or exposed to positive, human-related encounters and experiences. These should ideally occur before the age of 9 months. If kittens don’t become imprinted with such events early on, veterinarian visits may seem alien and frightening. That’s when your pet’s fight-or-flight response kicks into high gear.

In the short term, your cat needs its rabies shot and other health care treatments. Some veterinarians bring in an assistant who can hold the cat by the scruff of its neck and/or wrap a towel around parts of the cat while the veterinarian administers vaccines. Sedating a cat can lead to health risks, so you may wish to find a veterinarian who handles feral and otherwise unruly cats in another manner. Hospitals associated with local Humane Societies often deal with a wide variety of cats, so consider contacting these facilities first. Just remember that sedation will allow a more in-depth examination of your cat, and could potentially identify health concerns that might now otherwise be picked up.

In the long term, gradually socialize your now-adult cat. When grooming, for example, buy a soft-tipped brush and very gently run it across your cat’s fur, approaching from behind so your cat does not see you reaching over its head, which can appear threatening. Stop to offer praise and treats. Allow your cat to associate grooming with rewards and other pleasantries. It will take time for that association to become fixed in your cat’s memory, so please be patient with your skittish friend.

You may have many things in common with your cat, but the degree to which you smell and taste is not included on that list. You have 9,000 taste buds on your tongue; the taste buds work with your sense of smell to send information about the food you’re eating to your brain. This process allows you to savor various flavors.

The system is somewhat reversed in cats, which have a very keen sense of smell but fewer taste buds. Your cat only possesses 473 of these flavor detectors on its tongue, which is one reason why it never meows for dessert after dinner. Cats can’t perceive sweet tastes like humans can, but they do enjoy pungent fishy flavors and odors along with strong-smelling and -tasting meats. If the food is fresh and sold by a trusted manufacturer, rest assured that your cat’s nose knows quality chow.

Some cat owners think their pets' whiskers are just like thick hair, but cat whiskers are actually very sensitive organs. They help to protect your cat's eyes and other vulnerable facial features. Additionally, they extend past the face so your cat can survey the dimensions of a space before fully exploring it. If the area passes your cat's "whisker test," your feline may then continue to move forward, sometimes squeezing its body through tight places.

Recent studies suggest cat whiskers perform an even more amazing feat: They appear to be able to sense prey, such as a mouse, even without touching the other animal. This may be due to heat, airflow or other motion changes the sensitive whiskers detect.

Touching your cat's whiskers when your cat is relaxed and enjoying some quality time with you will likely not cause your pet any discomfort. It is best, however, to avoid touching the whiskers unnecessarily. And don't worry if your cat sheds one or two whiskers from time to time. That's normal since the whiskers undergo regular, natural replacement.

Most cats cannot descend a tree safely, because it's easier for a cat to climb up, using its claws and muscular hindquarters. When descending, the cat must rely upon its weaker front paws, with claws naturally facing in the wrong direction. A cat left to its own devices may even try to back down a tree.

This problem usually occurs when something or someone frightens the cat. A tall tree may provide the only means of escape. Some owners have even resorted to calling their local fire department to help get their cat down without injury. A better solution is to keep your cat inside, where the risk posed by tree climbing is eliminated.

We tend to think of communication as just being language-based, but animals exhibit other cues that function similar to language. Your cat's tail, for example, is like a mood ring, because you can look at it to help determine how your cat is feeling. Here are some basic tail moves and their meanings:

• Upright and/or pointed toward you Your cat is feeling confident and is open to bonding with you.



• Moving side to side If your cat is anxious, its tail will swish around and may even thump the floor. Stress has set in, so it's best to let your cat have some alone time.



• Tail hair erect When fur stands on end, it makes your cat look bigger, so this is a defensive mechanism kicking in, usually when your cat is afraid or is ready to attack. Cats do not often get to this stage with their owners. You're more likely to see the happier, upright tail position.

That's partly true. Cats do become anxious when stared at for any length of time. In the wild, this can be a sign of aggression or intimidation that may ultimately lead to a big catfight. Looking away is preferable to a kitty stare-down, but here's something even better to try:

Look into your cat's eyes and then blink slowly. Pet your cat and offer verbal praise after you do this a few times. If your cat also blinks at you by batting both eyes shut, feel flattered: It's a sign of affection and comfort in the feline world!

From a physical standpoint, loud noises emitted from televisions, stereos and other equipment won't hurt your cat's hearing, especially if your pet can move to a quieter room.

Keep in mind, however, that your cat's hearing is at least six times more sensitive than yours. If music or TV sounds blaring from a speaker seem loud to you, imagine how your cat feels about them. At the very least, you could be giving your kitty a major headache.

Try to keep your television at a reasonable sound level. If you like to listen to loud music from time to time, consider buying headphones. Many high-tech gadgets like iPods allow you to set a maximum volume, preventing your own hearing problems from developing. In terms of your cat, such volume limits come in handy if you plug your MP3 device into external speakers.

Studies on animal vocalizations are still in their infancy, but research has shown that many species not only respond when their name is called, but also that they name conspecifics (i.e., fellow cat relatives and friends) with or without human involvement. For example, a recent study found that wild dolphins name each other. Bats name each other too.

Since cats and dogs seem to understand the name-equals-self connection, it's very likely that many mammals name each other. If you have more than one cat, it could then be possible that your pet has two names: one in "cat speak" and the other that you gave him.

To reinforce your cat's recognition of his name, use it whenever you spend quality time with him. He will then associate your speaking his name with positive things, such as praise, treats and you.

There are several different ways to clean a cat's ears. One technique is to flush out your cat's ears with a special liquid cleaning solution, sold at veterinarians' offices and many pet stores. Cats often hate this process, and you might too when your cat shakes its ears out all over you and your furniture. Some veterinarians use a Q-tip or other internal probe. This can be effective, but very dangerous if you do it at home. It's best to leave this method for the experts. One of the easiest -- and safest -- methods is to moisten a cotton ball with water or vegetable oil and wipe the inner, visible portion of your cat's ear. This will help remove mites and other parasites that may be present, as well as dirt and debris. Do not probe your cat's ear canal. Also, be sure to use a clean cotton ball for each ear. Stroke your cat's head and cheeks during the cleaning so your pet will associate it with your pleasant company.

Regular, positive reinforcement can train animals, including humans and cats, to expect certain good outcomes. For example, you may enjoy a cup of coffee every morning. After a period of time, you develop a craving for that morning cup of joe. The same is true for cats that have been socialized, or have enjoyed positive interaction with humans, usually from a young age. It's possible to socialize older, feral cats, but they're not all equally receptive, and the process becomes more difficult as felines age. While it is a myth that all cats are loners, felines also value their solitary moments. Most let you know when they need a break from your attention. This is not a bad lesson for us humans to follow -- we, too, could take a few minutes each day for ourselves. Domestic cats, on the other hand, seem to have found the perfect balance between solitude and socializing.

It's perfectly normal for a cat to be fascinated by water. Some cats are not comfortable sticking their heads into the bowl to drink, so they prefer to dip in their paws. Once that behavior starts, it can become a habit. You kitty sounds like she is just very playful or perhaps bored and needs more appropriate outlets for her energy. Try to do at least two or three interactive play sessions with her during the day using a fishing pole toy. You can also create some diversions for her to engage in when you're gone so she won't be so inclined to play in her water. Try leaving a few open paper bags on their sides with toys inside. You can also create a cat tunnel by connecting some bags or boxes together. Another wonderful way for a kitty to spend its time is by watching a cat-interest video or DVD. You can then follow television time with a play session. If you do a few play sessions with her every day, she'll start to depend on those as her source of stimulation instead of pawing the water. In the meantime, use a place mat with a raised edge around it, or a plastic cafeteria tray, to protect the floor under the water bowl.

It is important to have an understanding of your cat's usual schedule in this regard. It is normal for some cats to have only one bowel movement a day and for others to have three or more movements per day. But if you notice straining, this could be a sign of constipation. A combination of canned and dry foods is a good diet, but because of the intake of long hair when your cat is grooming itself, there may be a tendency for your pet to strain a bit more when having a bowel movement. Brush your cat daily to help reduce the amount of hair it ingests when grooming. With your veterinarian's approval, try adding a stool softener, or other laxative for cats, to your pet's diet. Your veterinarian can advise you on the best laxative and the amount to give, based on your cat's health. However, it is important to first determine whether your cat is truly constipated, or if it just has infrequent bowel movements.

It is not unusual for a slight swelling to occur at the site of a vaccination. The small bump is usually a result of a localized reaction to the vaccine and will normally subside within five to seven days. The bump is usually firm and remains small. If, however, the site seems to be soft and getting larger due to swelling or is tender, it may be an abscess. This would require a follow-up exam by your veterinarian. He or she can advise what needs to be done, if anything. Swelling at the vaccination site is not normally a serious situation, but if there is any doubt in your mind, you should not hesitate to call your veterinarian and bring your cat in for an exam.

Obesity is the No. 1 nutritional disease seen in cats. In fact, more than 35 percent of the cat population is considered overweight. You mention that your cat weighs 15 pounds, but it is important to know if that is, in fact, considered overweight. For certain types of cats, 15 pounds may not be far off the normal weight, so always check with your veterinarian to determine what the cat's ideal weight should be. There are a couple of conditions that may be complicating your feline's ferocious appetite, including diabetes mellitus and thyroid disorders -- both of which can be detected from a blood test performed by your veterinarian. Be sure to have these tests done before you put your cat on a weight loss campaign. If all is clear, then you must begin to cut back on Annie's calories and increase her exercise. Remember, for best results, losing weight must be a two-pronged approach. First, feed a diet specially formulated for losing weight. Dry, canned or a combination of the two can successfully be used to help your cat lose weight. If you have more than one cat, feed them separately so you can monitor how much Annie eats. Also, keep your cat occupied with lots of exercise and new toys. Remember to hold weigh-ins weekly, either at home or at your veterinarian's office, so you can monitor the weight loss closely and see the results.

If you live with a cat, having her spayed (or him neutered) is one of the most responsible actions you can take. With so many orphaned and homeless kittens, preventing unwanted pregnancies is extremely important. Plus, having your cat spayed or neutered will help curtail roaming, fighting and other undesired behaviors that can lead to injury or even death. You should first consult with your veterinarian for the ideal time to have your cat spayed. If all health parameters are in order, the vet may recommend the procedure near weaning (three to four weeks after delivery) to prevent another pregnancy. In some cases, the procedure can be done earlier, but again, the matter should be discussed with your veterinarian. If your cat is not spayed, she will be more likely to develop mammary tumors and uterine infections. Early spaying is key in preventing these and other health problems. It is not important for cats to have a litter of kittens first, as this offers absolutely no health or behavioral benefits. Many veterinarians recommend spaying and neutering at an early age, prior to the first heat cycle.

Two weeks is too long for a cat of any age to be left alone. It's not just the feeding and litter cleaning that need to be done. Your kitty also needs playtime and companionship. The sudden change in activity will confuse her and make her lonely. Also, because she is still a youngster, she has that spirit of adventure in her; because of a lack of stimulation, she could get herself into trouble when no one is home. The best option is for someone you know and trust to kitty-sit and house-sit for you during that time.

Take a deep breath and relax -- things are not as bad as they seem. Ginger's reaction is very normal for a cat whose space has been invaded. Start from scratch and do a reintroduction. As you introduce the kittens to Ginger this time, do it in brief sessions of positive association. Let Ginger see the kittens for a few seconds and then offer her a treat or distract her with a toy. Do several 10- to 20-second sessions so Ginger learns that good things happen when she's in the presence of the kittens. These brief sessions will also help her to not feel so threatened. The key is to give Ginger a reason to like the kittens. After the introductions, put the kittens into another room away from your adult cat. Let them have their own space for a week or more -- as long as it takes for Ginger to become accustomed to having other felines around.

Congratulations on the adoption of Barney and Cassie! The behavior you're describing is nothing to worry about. In fact, many cats exhibit this style of eating.

Sometimes a cat will use its paw to spoon out the food onto the floor if the food bowl is not the right size for it. Make sure the bowl isn't too deep, large or small. You may want to try using shallow bowls for both food and water. Also, don't use a double bowl because some cats don't like having their food and water so close together.

If the bowl is the correct size, then your kitty may just not like putting its face into it. With some cats, though, the behavior is simply play-related. Cats will often grow out of this playful phase; however, it may become a habit. If your kittens are just poking at their food, it's likely that this is just to "test" it and make sure the bowl is safe.

To control the mess, you can buy your pet a place mat that has a raised edge all around, which will also help to contain any liquid spills.

Although it can be very unsettling for owners, hiding is a normal behavior of these territorial creatures. In free-roaming environments, unfamiliar cats that enter the territory of a colony would do so very carefully because there is a protocol to follow. Therefore, in a typical indoors situation involving guests coming to your house, your resident cat will naturally want to protect its territory. When cats feel threatened, they either run for cover, like yours, or stand their ground and try to look intimidating. To help your cat, try this exercise: Invite a quiet guest over who is also liked by the cat. When the guest enters, let the cat run and hide if he wants. Engage in conversation for a few minutes, then excuse yourself and go to where the cat is hiding. Casually conduct a play session using a fishing pole toy and use your voice to soothe your cat as you play. You're telling the cat through your actions that all is right in his world. He may not choose to play, but the message you'll be sending is one of relaxation and security. Go back to your guest. If your cat hasn't ventured out within about 10 minutes, go back for a second casual play session. Perform this exercise several times a week, if possible. If the cat does eventually venture out of its hiding place, keep the toy with you so you can casually entice your pet into a play session in the presence of the visitor.

Before your actual car trip, spend some time getting Molly accustomed to riding in the car. Gently place her in a carrier and take her on short drives around the block. These very short outings will make her more comfortable with the motion of the vehicle without it lasting long enough to cause much anxiety. After each training session, give her a treat -- if she's motivated by food -- or conduct a fun play session with her. Gradually increase the travel distance every few sessions.

When you do take the long trip, bring a light sheet with you to cover the carrier if Molly hyperventilates (the sight of the scenery whizzing by can often disorient a cat). You should also line the carrier with a towel in case she has an accident. Bring extra towels as well to reline the carrier with a fresh one if needed. Finally, be sure to bring a plastic bag for the soiled towels.

For some cats, drooling is an involuntary response to the pleasure of being petted. The drooling is usually accompanied by a kneading action of the front paws. If this is not the case, then a medical condition should be considered. Excessive drooling and slobbering could be a result of dental problems, such as inflamed gums or even a bad tooth. A common problem in cats, known as "cervical neck lesions," affects the upper portion of the tooth, beyond the gum line.

Another problem to consider is that your cat may have a foreign object stuck in its mouth. Sometimes a cat will get tiny objects, like a piece of string or a splinter, lodged between its teeth. The resulting discomfort can cause drooling. On occasion, the problem will be with the lip -- often difficult to detect without a veterinary examination. Ulcers or injuries may be the underlying problem here, as well. All of these situations need proper medical attention.

Regardless of the cause, a drooling cat should be examined by a veterinarian to help determine the cause so that correct medical treatment can be administered. If left unattended, conditions may worsen to the point that appetite is affected, and your cat may become seriously ill.

You can train your cat to become more comfortable with being held by doing trust-building exercises. Begin by petting your cat when she's relaxed. Then place a hand on each side of her for a short while. Do this several times a day and gradually work up to placing a hand around her.

When she tolerates this, the next step is to pick her up (just a few inches off the ground) and place her back down. The "pick-up" and "put-down" should be done quickly, before she knows what happened. Make sure that when you do this, you hold her upright and not on her back. You also want to support her hindquarters so she feels secure and comfortable.

The goal is to be able to carry her to another room and back. End each session with a reward, such as a treat or some petting time. Before long, your kitty should learn to tolerate, and even to enjoy, being held.

Offer them several small meals a day but feed both of your cats on a fixed schedule. Place their bowls far enough apart so they get used to eating at their own official meal areas, and pick up their food dishes after each meal. Initially, you'll have to supervise at mealtimes to make sure they don't steal food from each another. Soon enough, however, the novelty of trying to sneak "forbidden" food will soon fade.

Brushing is very important in keeping your cat's coat healthy and limiting the amount of hairballs due to self-grooming. Cats have very sensitive skin, though, so it's not unusual for them to react negatively when being brushed.

First, make sure you're using the right type of brush for your cat. If you have any doubts, ask your veterinarian or a professional groomer. Then focus on your grooming technique. Begin by gently brushing a spot that the cat enjoys, such as right behind the ears or head, before brushing sensitive areas, such as the flanks, across the backbone and the stomach. Think of your brushing technique as an extension of petting. Do a couple of strokes, offer your cat a treat or some praise and then end the session.

Keep each grooming session very short so it ends before the cat has time to realize what you've been doing. Gradually, you can increase the time of the sessions slightly, as your kitty gets used to the procedure. Whenever you have to brush a more sensitive area, do one or two strokes and then go back to a favorite spot.

It's also important to watch your cat's body language. Before she tries to bite the brush, she may be giving off other signals to indicate that she's reaching her tolerance threshold. Signs of increased agitation can include tail lashing, skin twitching, looking back at the brush, ears rotated back, and shifting body position. When you see these signs, stop the grooming session.

Eating nonfood items is known as pica. The first step is to have your cat checked by its veterinarian to make sure this behavior is not a manifestation of a medical issue. Once your cat has a clean bill of health, there are several steps you can take to address the problem.

Cats aren't pack animals and are quite territorial, so they're driven to attack unfamiliar felines that enter their turf.

If you want to add a second cat, gradually introduce it to your pet over the course of a couple of weeks. During this period, house the newcomer in a separate, "safe" room with food, water, a litter box and cozy hiding places. This will allow the kitten to get its bearings in its new home.

Let the cats get to know each other one sense at a time. First, they'll hear each other through the door. Next, rub each cat with a different sock and deposit that sock in the other's room. This is how they'll start to become familiar with each other's scents. The next step is to allow them to switch rooms and explore the area.

Finally, introduce the cats to each other for brief periods of time while offering positive forms of distraction, such as treats or interactive toys. Try to keep the cats far apart at first. Make the sessions brief and always end them on a positive note. Bribery -- with food treats, play or catnip -- is a great tool when introducing cats.

Cats are natural hunters, so the desire to pounce and play is very much a part of their makeup. It's wonderful that you want to give Samson enough playtime, but there are also a few other things you can do to help satisfy him without having to quit your job.

First, vary the types of toys you use. Also -- and this is very important -- make sure you wind the action down gradually as you end a game. This steady reduction in intensity will help leave him more relaxed -- instead of abruptly ending the game, which could keep him revved up.

Look around your home and see what changes you can make to create a more interesting environment for Samson. A multi-perch cat tree placed by a window will allow him to watch the birds outside. Or, you can create a cat tunnel by connecting several boxes or paper bags together, and then you can hide little toys inside. Rotate the toys you leave out for Samson's solo play (the non-stringed toys) to avoid boredom.

For additional stimulation for a high-energy cat, look no further than cat entertainment videos and DVDs -- available at pet supply stores, online and through mail order. Most cats absolutely love them.

Before you do anything, first have your cat checked by a veterinarian to rule out any possible underlying medical condition. If the cause turns out to not be physical, then explore other reasons why this might be happening. For a cat, moving from an apartment to a house can be really frightening, especially if the house is bigger. Your cat may not feel comfortable with the new location of its litter box, or it might even have trouble remembering where it is. Try to look at the situation from your cat's perspective and ask yourself if the box is in a location that meets the needs of your pet. Place an additional litter box in your bedroom. After your cat uses it successfully, you can begin to relocate it to another spot. If you live in a two-story home, there should be a litter box on each level so your cat will have no trouble getting to a box when it needs one. Remember to take it slow, as cats need adjusting to new habitats.

One thing's for certain: Cats love to nap in warm spots. While the warmth feels good to them, it prevents their skin and coat from staying healthy. Excessive dryness during the winter months, from both the cold air outdoors and home heaters, may result in dry, flaky skin and a dull coat of fur.

To avoid skin and coat flaking yet still satisfy your cat's penchant for a warm and cozy nesting place, try these ideas: First, place an obstacle, or double-sided sticky tape, near the vent to discourage this napping spot. If you have a sunny window (and you may have to locate two -- one for the morning and one for the afternoon), clear a spot nearby for your cat to be secure and comfortable so it can soak up the sun. A special cat perch or bed just for that spot can increase the comfort level. If there are no sunny spots in your home, try a gently heated kitty bed or a bed with a hot water bottle tucked under it. This will help keep your cat out of the direct draft of the dry heat, and your pet will be as content and cozy as ever.

A cat tree is a great thing to have in your house, but location plays a very important role in whether your feline will ever use it. Since cats typically enjoy being near their owners, it probably would use the tree more if it were located in a family-occupied area.

The ideal spot is near a window in a room where your family spends time, such as a den or living room. Placing it in a guest room where no one goes, for example, will cause your cat to ignore it or isolate itself from you -- something that neither of you would want.

Cats are meticulous groomers that spend a great deal of their time cleaning -- after meals, and before and after naps. If, however, you are noticing hair loss, this can be a sign of a problem that may require medical attention.

There are many reasons for hair loss, including, but not limited to, compulsive behavior, external parasites, stress, bacterial infections and allergies. Don't be quick to rule out flea-related problems, though. Sometimes cats are such careful cleaners that they rid themselves of all outward signs of insect infestation.

Hair pulling and chewing are warning signs that your cat is uncomfortable. Your veterinarian can help you get to the root of the problem and start appropriate treatment. Try to schedule a full checkup for your cat as soon as possible.

Hissing is a defensive behavior. So, during playtime, try not to dangle the toy in your cat's face or to wave it frantically. Your kitty is probably getting frightened, and your attempt to entertain has probably become less of a game to your cat and more of a battle.

You can also move the toy away from your pet and not toward it. Remember that prey never willingly approach a predator. The toy shouldn't always be in motion, so your cat has time to plan its attack. And make sure your feline gets to catch it often during the game.

Look for toys that are well suited to your cat's ability and temperament. For example, your cat may need a small toy, or one that doesn't make any noise. Toys like these are less likely to frighten felines.

This behavior is more common than you might think. It's actually a very normal thing for cats to do. Some felines don't like sticking their heads into their water bowls because the bowl is either too small, which causes it to squish their whiskers, or it's too large and overwhelming. Since your kitty is dunking its paw, licking it and then drinking from the bowl, my guess is that it's testing the water's depth. Be sure to keep a consistent level of water in the bowl. It also helps to use a water bowl that has a design on the bottom, which will help your cat to gauge the depth. Additionally, some cats just like to make everything an adventure, so they play a bit before taking a drink. You may want to consider getting a pet water fountain. It will allow your kitty to play with the running water and yet provide enough water in the bowl to quench a thirsty cat. The flowing fountain also keeps the water oxygenated, so it won't taste stale like standing water can become.

Ouch! That doesn't sound like much fun. The problem may be that you're using your fingers as toys. If so, this sends a message to your cat that it's OK to bite flesh. Even if you're holding a small toy as you play, your cat won't know where the toy ends and your fingers begin. To avoid this biting problem, engage your cat in play using a fishing pole-type toy. This toy puts a very safe distance between the cat's teeth and your hand. Be sure to put the toy away after playtime to keep the cat from chewing the stringy parts, which could be unsafe.

Are you sure it's your cat's breath? A bad odor that seems to come from the mouth may also be emanating from the cat's ears or other areas around the head. In any case, a visit to the veterinarian is in order. Bad breath is a sign that there could be an underlying health problem that should be examined by your veterinarian. Usually odors come from bacteria. The source of bacteria could be an accumulation of plaque and tartar on the teeth and would require a professional cleaning by your veterinarian. Cats, just like humans, will collect plaque and tartar on their teeth and require regular dental maintenance, including daily brushing and regular professional cleaning and polishing. In rare situations, there could be something stuck to your cat's teeth, or to the roof of its mouth, causing a bad odor. If your cat has recently been into any table scraps (a major no-no), such as chicken bones, a bone could be stuck in its mouth. In any case, you should have your cat examined by your veterinarian to determine the source of the mysterious odor.

First, check all cords in your home to make sure there have been no breaks in the integrity of the insulation. If any spot seems chewed or frayed, replace the entire cord immediately.

Reduce temptation by securing cords to table legs and baseboards. You can find electrical cord covers that attach to baseboards at your local home improvement store. You can also bundle computer cords inside a PVC pipe. Cut a lengthwise slit in the pipe and squeeze the cords through.

All cords that you can't secure should be coated with a bitter anti-chew preparation, available at pet supply stores. Use disposable gloves when applying it because it truly does taste bitter!

The problem you describe is common in kittens. Excessive gas can result from various causes, such as consuming too much food. As you may have noticed, when there are two cats in a home, they may eat simply in the name of competition and overeating can disrupt the digestive process. Flatulence will often stop over time. You should, however, make sure that your kittens are free of intestinal parasites (worms). Take them to your veterinarian for a proper health exam, which will include checking the stools for parasites. If the situation does not resolve itself relatively soon, you may want to consider changing their diet. It's possible that an ingredient in the food you are currently feeding them may be causing the flatulence. A simple dietary change may correct this. And be sure to avoid any table foods or milk products, which can cause digestive upsets.

The behavior Kisses is displaying is very common in this situation. She is mourning the loss of her brother and is confused by his disappearance. It's not unusual that she's carrying around Cupcake's favorite toy as a way of comforting herself. Her cries are normal warning sounds that cats make when they have a prized "prey" in their mouth. They want to warn other cats in the area not to try to take it away. You may find that Kisses starts spending time in Cupcake's favorite napping areas. This is normal as well. You can help her through this difficult period by planning lots of play sessions with her for distraction. The playtime will also help her to realize that not everything in her world has turned upside down.

Losing some weight will greatly improve her situation. After consulting with your veterinarian to rule out any possible health problems, try to get your cat to exercise more. Play with her several times a day and consider getting some new toys to spark her interest. If she's not used to playing, you may have to start gradually, but you should be able to get her moving around more than she probably is now. Consider feeding her food that is specially formulated for less active cats. Also, brush your cat daily. This can help your feline with the clean-up chore.

It's important to have an understanding of your feline's usual schedule in this regard. It is normal for some cats to have only one bowel movement a day, while another cat may have three or more movements per day as a normal routine. But if you notice straining, this could be a sign of constipation. Feeding a combination of canned and dry foods is a good diet, but because of the intake of long hair when your cat is grooming itself, there may be a tendency for your pet to strain a bit more when having a bowel movement. Brushing your cat daily will help reduce the amount of hair it ingests when grooming. With your veterinarian's approval, a stool softener or other laxative for cats, which you can add to your pet's diet, might help. Your veterinarian can advise you on the best laxative (and the amount) to give, based on your cat's health. But it is important to first determine whether your cat is truly constipated or if it just has infrequent bowel movements.

It is not unusual for a slight swelling to occur at the site of a vaccination. The small bump is usually a result of a localized reaction to the vaccine, and it will normally subside within five-to-seven days. The bump is usually firm and remains small. If, however, the site seems to be soft and getting larger due to swelling, or if it is tender, it may be an abscess. This would require a follow-up exam by your veterinarian, and he or she can advise what needs to be done, if anything. Swelling at the vaccination site is not normally a serious situation, but if there is any doubt in your mind, you should not hesitate to call your veterinarian and bring your cat in for an exam.

Obesity is the No. 1 nutritional disease seen in cats. In fact, more than 35 percent of the cat population is considered overweight. You mentioned that your cat weighs 15 pounds, but it is important to know if this is, in fact, considered overweight. For certain types of cats, 15 pounds may not be far off the normal weight, so always check with your veterinarian to determine what the cat's ideal weight should be.

There are a couple of conditions that may be complicating your feline's ferocious appetite, including diabetes mellitus and thyroid disorders -- both of which may be detected from a blood test performed by your veterinarian. Be sure to have these tests done before you put your cat on a weight loss campaign. If all is clear, then you must begin to cut back on Annie's calories and increase her exercise. Remember, for best results, losing weight must be a two-pronged approach.

Feed a diet specially formulated for losing weight. Dry, canned or a combination of the two types of food can successfully be used to help your cat lose weight. Just remember you'll need to monitor how much your cat eats, so try to feed your cats separately if you have more than one feline.

Also, keep your cat occupied with lots of exercise and new play toys. Remember to hold weekly weigh-ins either at home or at your veterinarian's office so you can monitor the weight loss closely and see the results.